All things come to an end

August 16, 2014

Dear Lillianne -

Today was the last day of our northern adventures, and we feel that we have returned to Edmonton with a new life perspective and appreciation for the beauty that life has to offer. We will finish our blogging with a list of our top ten reasons to travel up north as these experiences have been indelibly etched into our brains and beings.

After a full week of travel, we were all relieved to have an opportunity to sleep in a bit on this final morning. Fort Garry Hotel is definitely a comfortable stay, and we further enjoyed the incredible breakfast that was cooked right before our eyes. I (Ania) had a giggle when ordering some omelettes for Chris and myself because I wanted them fully loaded, and the chefs triple checked that they heard right before actually cooking them up. While we truly enjoyed our meals up north, it was great to come back to some more greens as well as the diversity of choice that we are accustomed to (urban habits are hard to shed).

As our flight was not until 3:30 that afternoon, we checked out of our rooms and stored our bags so that we could do some exploring in town. During our first stop in Winnipeg our driver had recommended that we visit the historically significant area known as "The Forks", which was a short walk from the hotel. Not knowing much about the area, we decided to give it a try.

On the way over we stopped off at the Train Station Museum and enjoyed the enormous, dome structure. We then took the opportunity to take photos of the not yet opened Human Rights Museum that had some truly unique architecture. A short walk further brought us to a park in which hundreds of people were gathered to communally practice yoga (Sami was oddly drawn to this) and then we reached some interesting monuments. A bit further toward the river we came across a spectacular park designed to represent the history of the area from Native nomadic style living to early settlers to modern day living. Sami enjoyed the spray park and ran around to explore every possible item. It was a great afternoon, as well as the perfect way to tire him out before the last leg of our journey.

Before heading back to the hotel, we stopped off at a neat little corner cafe that had a surprisingly eclectic menu. Elizabeth ended up choosing some pizza slices and a nanaimo bar, Chris had a London fog and strudel, Sami had some fruit, yogurt, and smoothie, and I (Ania) had some fruit and a smoothie. Great find. We then picked up our luggage and had a pleasant ride to the airport. Our driver Don was not only knowledgeable about, but very proud of his city. He drives a number of local philanthropists who make significant dollar contributions to bettering the community, and was happy to tell us all about them.

At the airport there were some issues with the machines intended to speed up the check-in process (I tried two but one shut down mid-way through processing and the other one only printed our boarding passes, not our luggage tags). The atmosphere was clearly tense and desperate as I had a number of fellow travelers approach me asking for direction and advice. Being in the same position as they were,  I did what I could to help them; mostly people were comforted by being heard and acknowledged. Traveling can certainly be stressful.

We made it through security and to the gate in good time, and we were, after our initial flight debacle, thrilled to be returning home without a hitch. Or so we thought. Our flight was overbooked and after about an hour of announced enticements to have people volunteer to take a later flight home, we were finally able to return to Edmonton. Baggage pickup and the drive home were smooth, and after a week of unforgettable experiences, we are happy to be home and revel in memories of spectacular adventures made possible by both The Children's Wish Foundation and the countless volunteers and donors that make such trips possible for families like ours. At the end of the day, this trip had allowed us to spend quality family time regrouping and being reminded that experiences - when we let them - allow us to become better versions of ourselves.


ACES' Top Ten Reason to Travel Up North

10. Unique wildlife in their natural habitats, including polar bears, beluga whales, and Arctic tern
9. Picturesque landscapes, accented by a vast blue sky; vital features essential to survival
8. It is possible to experience all four seasons in a single day (dress in layers!)
7. Uninhibited view of aurora borealis and the night sky
6. The arctic "trees" that aren't even a foot tall (in Arviat), contrasted to the mix of boreal forest and tundra in Churchill
5. Inuit feasts
4. Large insects - it is easier to spot and swat them!
3. Laid back atmosphere - everything will be done in due time
2. Activities such as throat singing, drumming, dog-sledding, kayaking, snorkelling, whale boating, helicopter tour, etc.
1. The People: a true embodiment of life-giving social values such as kindness, sharing, and unity

And so we end our blog; we hope you have enjoyed hearing about our experiences. We will make photo and hyperlink additions soon.

With love and gratitude,
Ania, Chris, Elizabeth, and Sami

Final day up north

August 15, 2014

Dear Lillianne -

It is hard to believe that our final day up north is already here. We had a fabulous start to the morning after a great sleep, another delicious breakfast at Padlei Inn, and were greeted by Olivia's warm smile. She politely suggested at this point that we dress in more layers, but because the sun was shining, we thought: we can handle this.

Olivia drove us out a few kilometers away from Arviat to a watering-hole surrounded by dog yards. Olivia's brother raised a specific cross breed that was just stunning, and we enjoyed meeting every dog on the team. We also learned that when approaching a team of dogs, you must always approach the alpha first. The puppies that were recently born were already moved elsewhere, so Olivia found some adorable puppies in a neighbouring yard for us to visit with.

It was at this point that I began to regret not following Olivia's advice about the layers. My feet and head were becoming uncomfortable in the biting wind, but I did not want to miss any opportunities for something new. We went cloud-berry picking on the spongy tundra and enjoyed the unique, tangy flavour of the orange fruit that looked strikingly similar to raspberries. We marveled at the diverse growth on the mottled landscape, as the various shades of green around black and white rock blended into a beautiful tapestry as far as the eye could see. Sami and Elizabeth also enjoyed finding the odd animal bone chewed clean from some hunt  many days prior. We then went to a nearby area that is, in July, a perfect area for finding Arctic tern eggs. While we were not able to find any nests due to high tide, we did get to see some of the birds gracefully swooping around in the air.

Back at the Inn, our friend Conroy, an airplane mechanic, joined us for lunch and shared some of his travel adventures from his time up north. We invited him to fish with us after lunch, as Olivia was picking Elizabeth up for this special addition to our itinerary. He accepted so we all headed out to the town dock. It being low tide there was slim chance that Elizabeth or Olivia would catch anything, but the view was spectacular and Elizabeth was beaming at the opportunity.

Conroy, Chris, Sami and I took this time to attend an Inuit wedding. At a nearby church, two young and excitedly-nervous locals were preparing to join their lives together as husband and wife. What struck us most was the number of guests - the church was packed with both seated and standing guests, everyone exuding the most positive and joyful energy. We stood in the back of the church hoping to remove ourselves from the action and bear witness to a great day from an inconspicuous vantage point, and instead found ourselves situated in the area that the bridal party was emerging for the opening procession. The green and pink gowns matched the accent decorations in the room and every one of the 10 bridesmaids shone enormous smiles. Eventually the bride emerged, overcome with joy, eyes brimming with emotion, and we realized at this point that we were in the background of a great number of photos. Sending our silent blessings, we made a quick exit and returned to our fisherwomen.

At the dock we found out that Olivia and Elizabeth managed to catch some fish eggs, which was impressive considering the conditions. We then bade farewell  to Olivia for a few hours as we piled into Conroy's truck for a final attempt at glimpsing some wildlife in the Arctic landscape. We drove out past a memorial dedicated to a freight ship that went down a few years ago, with no survivors (too much freight coupled with strong winds led to the tragedy) and reached an area referred to as "the point". This is also one of the best areas in town to fish for Arctic char, and potentially the most dangerous as it is a long walk to the end of the point if you are going on your own. As such, there is a lot of potential for a massive polar bear to corner you!

A few days prior, a polar bear had caught and dragged a beluga whale on shore. The remnants had drawn a number of wildlife until it was picked clean to the point that it was abandoned, and was just becoming sun bleached. We were about to leave the area when Chris spotted a polar bear coming up over a ridge in the distance. Following her were not one, but two cubs! What a fortunate surprise - we climbed out of the car for pictures and some viewing with our binoculars. They were gorgeous - unconcerned by their surroundings (benefit of being top of the food chain), they loped lazily forward, stopping for a drink before diving in and swimming across to the next stretch. What a spectacular finish to our polar bear adventures!

Conroy had a plane to inspect right away so we headed back to the Inn. We visited the general store for one last time and explored the local play grounds. Sami impressed us with his improved coordination and confidence as he fearlessly climbed all the structures, just like the local children. Elizabeth was a fantastic help in ensuring he did not topple off. When we headed back to the Inn, we visited some more with Phyllis (manager) and her husband Bob (head chef) who fed us one last time before we went on our way. They also spoiled Elizabeth some more with a caribou-skin miniature of an Inuit kayak as well as a stunning painting of wildlife done in the traditional fashion. Finally, Phyllis and Bob gave us an envelope so that we could make a donation to The Children's Wish Foundation on Elizabeth's behalf, so more children like her can enjoy the magic of a wish. Incredibly kind, incredibly thoughtful. People like them make the world more beautiful.

Olivia picked us up early and the drive back to the airport was bittersweet. Only two days earlier we first drove down that bumpy gravel rode, unsure and excited about what we would discover of the northern way of life. Here we were driving down the same path, filled with incredible memories of a simple principle demonstrated by an entire community: Be welcoming, so you can be welcomed.

Olivia extended this concept even further by presenting Elizabeth and Sami with some custom made gifts, with words we will always treasure: "The entire community appreciated your time with us. Thank you for visiting Arviat." Crocheting is one of the arts that the hamlet is known for, and Sami was presented with a sweet little crocheted hat that not only fit him well, but matched his winter jacket perfectly. Elizabeth's gift was also testament to Arviat skill (Olivia had told us earlier that traditionally, Inuit seamstresses do not take measurements when making clothing as they can see a person's size and create the clothing accordingly). Amautis (parka with enlarged hood for carrying babies and young children) was commonly worn in the community and Elizabeth and I both often thought about how wonderful it would be to carry a child in that manner. So as soon as Elizabeth saw her gift, she put it on over her clothes and had Sami climb in. Sami calls this riding "pig back-pack" and Elizabeth wanted to carry him everywhere in this manner. These items will be fondly used for years to come, coupled with the thought: matana.

Around this time we discovered that our flight was significantly delayed and that our next flight was being rerouted to stop in Thomson before reaching Winnipeg to accommodate some other travellers. Olivia took us for one last ride around the area and stayed with us at the airport until we left; as such, Olivia - tourism coordinator and human extraordinaire - was the first and last smiling friend we saw in Arviat.

At Churchill airport (now seeming like a lifetime ago) we ran into some "old friends" - Colin, who had picked us up at the airport in Churchill when we had first arrived, on his way home for a few weeks, and a lovely couple that had gone dogsledding with Chris and Elizabeth who had had some amazing adventures in and around Churchill. It was pleasant visiting some more with familiar, friendly faces before boarding our next flight. We arrived in Winnipeg after 11 and were relieved to see our driver waiting for us, cheerful and ready to get us to the hotel for a regenerative sleep. To be honest, I do not remember much from the conversation other than it being pleasant, and by around midnight we were all snug in our beds and ready for our last day of traveling.

Read on...

Ania of ACES

Arviat is a wonderful place to be!

August 14, 2014

Elizabeth: When traveling up north, these items will likely be on your checklist: warm clothing (ahem), camera - check, and screaming baby - oh yeah. We got the privilege of waking up at 4:30am to tend to Sami. He had fallen off the bed after crawling across my body, about a two-foot drop, and landed right on his face (this is why he sleeps in a crib at home). The poor guy. After that we all half-slept until 7:00, when our day officially started. I'm so tired!!

Ania: Bam - pause - ARGGGHHHHHHH! Poor Sami. The irregular schedule and unfamiliar surroundings have led to a number of spills that have coloured his face with bumps and scratches. Fortunately, the rough start was not a premonition for the remainder of the day. After a hearty breakfast and great conversation with Phyllis (manager of the inn) and her boss (Brian), we were surprised with some memorabilia for the trip as well as an offer to take the family out of the hamlet tomorrow so we have a better chance of seeing wildlife, which is typically away caring for their young at this time of year. The two had also generously gifted Elizabeth and Sami a small replica of a traditional Inuit sled, tiny seal skin moccasins, and a caribou bone version of the stick-and-cup game.

Sami: Hurt! MO-MEE! Bobo! Sami hurt! (zzzz) Goodmorning! Sami! Diaper! Sit here, Papa! Pancakes! Coffee Mama, coffee Papa! No coffee Ela- tea! Dank-pu Phyllis!

Elizabeth: Yes, a big thank you to Phyllis and Brian for their kindnesses! A good friend of Olivia's named Kayla later came to pick us up for a day of explorations. We drove around town and my mom asked if we could look at the 'new' (10 year old) high school. My parents both said the facility was much nicer than the schools they work at (a pity). We also went to one of the three general stores in town and looked at the prices that were for the most part only slightly higher than in Edmonton when it came to food. The clothes were a different story; there were kid shoes that were selling for $5 up to $75! My mom bought Sami three pairs of the less expensive shoes (that he actually needed as he wears out shoes quite quickly).

Ania: Apparently the prices were so exorbitantly high for fresh food that enough people complained and prices were finally lowered last week. Kayla, during our tour, also gave us lots of interesting information regarding Arviat. It is the fastest growing city in the world. 60% of the population is under 18. There is a very high rate of diabetes in Arviat and the rest of Nunavut, since the sugary foods are easier to transport and are considerably cheaper. 90% of the homes are both rented and overcrowded; often there are 10 people living in a two-room apartment. Unemployment rates are high and many people require social assistance to live; there simply are not enough jobs. Most jobs are municipal in nature (stores, road work). This generation is recognizing the importance of education in changing the circumstances and is, unlike in the past, placing a greater emphasis on regular attendance in school. There is a high transience rate for teachers, but the community enjoys meeting new people so this is ok. Our most prominent observation is the strong sense of togetherness and interdependence; anywhere we go people are greeting each other, taking care of each other. In fact - a polar bear was chasing three youth through town last week and a number of people stepped in to deter the bear, and the boys managed to escape to a home for safety. The community feel was especially evident when we visited an Elders' 24 hour care facility that welcomed Elders from all around the area. The residents were curious about who we were and were treated with notable respect and reverence in all interactions. There were beautiful photographs of all the Elders who had stayed at the facility (including Kayla's great grandma) and the rooms were clean and well kept.

Elizabeth: All in all, we were having a good time, until we stepped out of the truck later. This is why it was a mistake to go out in t-shirts, even though it was hot in the morning. The weather is very unpredictable here, just like the incredible friendliness of the people (Kayla summarized this thought with: Be welcoming so you can be welcomed). For example, at Kiluk Sewing Centre, one of the sweet ladies bought us a beautiful Inukshuk statue. We also bought mittens that are made out of soft, waterproof sealskin with leather and special insulators to keep cold hands warm, which is perfect for me in the winters to come.

Ania: Arviat is well-known for its artisans, and the Kiluk Sewing Centre was testament to this. We were surrounded by stunning carvings with the most delicate features made of stone or bone; gorgeous and pragmatic outerwear made of seal skin or caribou. Each piece represented Inuit ingenuity and skill for survival, their indomitable spirit, and respect for the land they live with. The three hard-working ladies at the store - up until a few years ago - made everything in the traditional fashion. With the purchase of some machines, their efficiency had considerably increased; a giant tumbling machine for softening hide reduced the time spent on this activity from three weeks to three hours. Sewing machines also allow for better usage of their time, although they do continue to hand sew certain items. One of the women had a son who passed away from cancer a few years ago, and he had been an enormous Montreal Canadiens fan and had gone to Montreal to attend a hockey game for his wish trip, so she was very touched by Elizabeth's choice to come up here. She was the kind lady who insisted on purchasing an Inukshuk statue that we liked for our family. We also later found out that the price we paid for the mittens for Elizabeth (which was the listed price) was about half of what locals pay for the same item. They are durable and lovely so Elizabeth will certainly make good use of them!

We also visited the Visitors Centre which is kind of like a touch-and-feel museum. There were caribou furs laid out on the ground that are placed outdoors in the winter for people to sit on, and Sami enjoyed petting them. There was a giant taxidermied polar bear, growling from up high at people who entered. Full sized traditional weapons and tools on the walls gave us a good idea of the skill required to both make and use the items. Elizabeth had an in-depth explanation of every item while Chris, Sami and I explored various other items. Sami enjoyed the games (tossing a spear at a tiny, pencil sized hole - talk about precision) and I spent most of my time looking at old photographs from various archives in the region. There was also a gorgeous diorama of what traditional daily living was like as well as a display of the intricate traditional wear of the Inuit. I also enjoyed the various tapestries and legends that decorated the walls. One particular section resonated with me as it spoke of white man's response to the north: either that of fear, as they approach what they view as indomitable, barren land; or that of curiosity, and the desire to measure and quantize climate and soil quality and animal habits. The Inuit approach the land as a place of opportunity, providing them with all that they need to survive.

Elizabeth: After a delicious lunch at the Inn, we went for tea and stories to Mark and Angie Eetuk's and got to see a beautiful home full of art. Angie decorated the walls with rocks that made pictures of tribute to their traditional lifestyle, essentially bringing the outdoors into their home. They also collected tins and various containers to stack up on the shelves, and many other items were painted and enhanced with their artistic sense. Both Mark and Angie are incredibly talented. Angie weaves and sewing is her specialty. Mark also did lots of art, more with carving and making jewelry; we also got to see him play drums later in the day.

Mark and Angie even surprised me with a sweet card, a cute dancing walrus statuette (made by Mark) and a stunning tapestry of polar bears (made by Angie) - such generosity! They were experts at hosting as they even brought out a bunch of cars, motorbikes, planes, trains, helicopters and boats for Sam to play with and get distracted by as we visited. We later had some bannock Angie had made and a selection of northern teas. Their son also stopped by to meet us and gave us a free copy of his new album that is being released next week, and it's all in Inuktitut - an eclectic mix of music that he plays at various festivals all around northern and eastern Canada. Later he made and sold us hand-made earrings for low prices. Oh, and it is his daughter's first birthday today, so we gave her one of the Children's Wish Foundation stars we have, as well as a little wind-up butterfly that flaps its wings as it zooms around on the ground. We hope she has a great birthday.

Ania: Mark and Angie are the quiet, kind, welcoming, talented, and giving sort of people that the world could never have enough of. They greeted us warmly and gave us a few moments as we explored and commented on the unique art that Elizabeth described. Angie pulled out a scrapbook that showed her and Mark's family history and stories. Adorable youngsters, they both came from strong families that were recognized by explorers early on. There were many photos and newspaper clippings that celebrated their grandparents ability to survive in a hostile environment. Mark and Angie are also celebrities in their own right, traveling as musicians and artisans and well-respected community members. They were invited to meet the Queen at Rankin Inlet and the Queen offered to buy a traditional costume from Angie 'at any price'. Angie politely declined, as she had promised her eldest granddaughter the costume for her graduation. These detailed pieces used to take Angie 5 years to make when she first started learning how at age 15, but these days it takes her 3 months of labour. She has made about 27 in her life. Angie is also a skilled hunter, having harpooned two belugas while wearing a skirt! Mark had been invited to England and other areas around Canada to drum and his son Abraham has carried on that love of music. One of my favourite items that Angie shared with us is the needle that Mark had made for her our of a nail as an engagement gift (equivalent of an engagement ring?) as she remembered him toiling outside her home and she had no idea what he was doing. She then showed us a photograph of the baskets she had woven with the help of that needle. Truly, they are the perfect match for one another. All they asked is that we sign their guest book to help them remember our visit. We are so honoured by their welcome.

Elizabeth: As I had said earlier, we got to see Mark again at the Visitors Centre. Every Inuit drummer has their own style and his was one of my favorites. Everyone was dressed in traditional clothing and there was a nice mix of young people and elders. The drumming was alway accompanied by Inuit singing, and we also enjoyed some presentations of throat singing. They even tried to teach me but it is very hard to do; everyone said I did well for a first try.

Ania: The performance we were treated to was by the famous Arviat Qaggiqtiit. This multi-generational group is leading a resurgence of celebrating old traditions. What struck us was the cooperative and dynamic nature of the performances, and how much fun everyone seemed to be having even dressed in the traditional costumes on a hot day. They were wonderful in teaching Elizabeth a throat song, which is a type of singing entirely unique to the Inuit. Much of their performing represented nature in some fashion and created an ethereal atmosphere. Even Sami sat still the entire time, completely enchanted by the sights and the sounds. What was interesting afterward was finding out that the performers had taken time off work to treat us and that the Elders in particular insist on walking everywhere. One of the artists we had met at the airport yesterday, and Elizabeth noted at the time that she did not enjoy traveling because concrete and solid ground made her legs cramp. A few people have made the comment that everyone who leaves the community always comes back; their strong cultural ties and connection with nature likely contribute to that trend.

After this incredible experience, we were invited to a feast outside of town. Not knowing what exactly this entailed we naturally agreed. The site was about a 15 minute drive out of the hamlet near a lake where the majority of Inuit youth attend camp. There was a pristine lake that we attempted to canoe on but Sami kept trying to lean over the side and with the wind, we came dangerously close to capsizing a number of times. Heading back to the dock was tricky but we made it. Around this time many people began arriving and the food was about done cooking, so we mingled a little bit and answered many curious queries regarding who we were and why we were there. We then settled in to try all sorts of traditional foods: more bannock (modern-traditional), cooked caribou as well as dried, cooked, raw, and dried Arctic char (Ela said it tasted like salmon) and cooked and raw beluga. We felt a little guilty trying that one and I honestly could not figure out how anybody could chew through the raw meat - it was tougher than rubber! - but at least I can say I tried it. The food was filling and delicious.

Around this time we began to discover that we had an interesting mix of people, including government officials, Elders, and various people both in and out of the community. We were asked if we could present ourselves so everyone - about 50 - comfortably squished into one of the youth projects (a lakeside cabin currently under construction, but still offering a respite from the wind) and we introduced ourselves and our reasons for visiting with the help of a translator. All around us we were greeted by smiles and encouraging eyes and after we finished speaking, an Elder asked if she could pray for our family. It looked as though a sea of kind-hearted individuals gravitated toward Elizabeth, extending their arms around her, on her, as they prayed for health and well-being. It was a very intense spiritual moment as everyone unified their intentions for our Elizabeth. Afterwards we received handshakes, hugs, and blessings as many approached us for more individual contact. This was followed by some more chanting and drumming which Chris and Sami participated in. Everyone marveled at how naturally Chris kept the beat with the drum and at how Sami kept up with his dancing. It felt like an official induction into the community.

During this time we met the Minister of Education for Nunavut as well as one of the ladies in charge of curriculum redesign. Because Elizabeth was inadequately dressed, she lent Elizabeth her jacket and then ended up giving it to her. Honestly, we have experienced kindness before, but the Inuit of Arviat and surrounding areas bring the welcoming to a whole other level!

Sami: Dank-pu Kayla! Dank-pu Phyllis! Goodnight polar bears! Goodnight boogagas!

Churchill, Manitoba & Arviat, Nunuvat

Dog Carting

Leaving at 8 :30 pm on Tuesday, Elizabeth and Chris took the a van fitting 10 people to dog carting at Blue Sky Mushing. Once we got to the facility, there were about 30 dogs, each with their own little house which were elevated to ensure that the dogs stay dry. Gerald and Jennifer, the owners, explained that many of the dogs were acquired through adoption programs (much like the Humane Society) and as a result they came in rough shape. As such, the dogs were well treated and the training methods were efficient – they did what mother dogs do with their young. It was amazing to watch - the ‘leader’ dogs even took the initiative to help the newer dogs out. We were glad that the dogs were well trained. The company even went to the extent that guns were always accessible for the protection of guests and dogs.

As soon as the cart is pulled up and the dogs are being attached, the rest of the dog yard becomes very excited. As a result, the first run is significantly faster than the later ones. However, in the summer, the dogs do only one loop (a one mile stretch) as opposed to the 2 mile stretch that they would run in the winter due to the heat. Chris and Elizabeth were the 3rd run to go that evening (2 passengers and a musher). Three simple commands led the dogs (left, right and stop – said as gee, hah, etc.). While they were on, there was a rabbit that one of the leader dogs , Whiskey, had his eye on, so the musher (Gerald) had to remind him to keep his focus on the road. The dogs were hugging the curves and weren’t afraid to pull us into the yard going full speed! Oh, and did I mention the dog names? Google with his brother Yahoo,  Coffee (probably Chris’ favourite), and Ultra and Sound since the musher’s wife was an ultrasound technician.

After all 6 pairs of passengers had gone, we went into the cabin and ate from freshly made bannock and cookies made with wild blueberries as we warmed our frozen hands with hot chocolate. We waited around for a little while hoping to get a glimpse of the northern lights. There was only a faint glimmer around 11 :40 pm but at least we were able to see the stars and constellations quite clearly. We then grabbed our pictures and decided to call it a night. What an adventure!

-Chris and Elizabeth

                                                                                            Wednesday, August 13, 2014

The Fort

A late morning start led to a rushed breakfast to catch the bus to go see the Fort Prince of Wales and go on a Beluga whale watching tour. Once the group got there the 25 people split up, and our group went to the Fort first.

You may know that everything was different up north. But  being able to eat a plant – petals, leaves, everything – was interesting. Fireweed has pretty purple flowers (stunning at this time of year) with fiery stems and long leaves holding them up. They were quite plain but still good; especially when compared to soap berries, which earned their name for a reason. But even with a somewhat unflattering taste in our mouthes, you could not walk into the Fort Prince of Wales without hearing oohs and aahs.

As a quick summary, the Fort was  built - the third one, after the first which was taken over by the french and the second which broke down - by the Hudsons Bay Trading Company in 1731. Never mind the fact that it took 40 years to build – due to ice build-up and all the harsh weather up in Churchill as well as unskilled laborers. Once it was done, Samuel Hearne became governer and it all went well until a French privateer arrived with 300 soldiers and forced surrender (1777), without a single shot being fired (talk about expensive canons going to waste!), and even after that the Fort was set on fire, the cannons destroyed, and the fort was never again put to use.

It was ironic that the British fort was built in French style, but the final product was very impressive to behold. Cleverly constructed of stone, an example of the architect’s foresight was that the baker and the blacksmith shared a room so that they only needed one oven. Although the traders’ and settlers’ survival depended on their friendship with the Aboriginal people, it was convenient that Chuchill is located near both Native Americans (Dene and Cree) and Inuit.

We were then informed by men with guns (standard patrol in the area) of a polar bear sighting by the water about 2km up from where we were. We left the Fort with our fingers crossed.

Whale watching

All the excitement  of the morning caused Sami to trip and fall on his face. But his meltdown (second of the day) didn’t last for long as we boarded the boat. « Boogaga! » was his way of saying beluga, and his enthusiastic mispronunciation as he said  ‘bye bye boogaga’ to every whale made everyone on the boat laugh. The whales were beautiful as they emerged through the calm waters.

And then we saw the polar bears! It was a mother and her cub lounging on some rocks, sniffing the air as we came nearer. From the constant movement of the boat it was difficult to get a decent photo, but the sight was incredible. The entire morning was amazing and we were very much looking forward to the adventures of Arviat!

Arviat

It was great that Sami napped on the the plane as he – like the rest of us – is slightly sleep deprived. The flight was only about an hour, but we were still treated very well. Mom especially enjoyed our stewardess who was the most animated flight attendant that we had every experienced. At the tiny Arviat airport,  Olivia, the person in charge of tourism for the Hamlet, greeted our family warmly. This was introduction to what it’s like to be in a place where everyone speaks Inuktitut and where we don’t quite fit in (we also learned that hi and bye in Inuktitut are not said because their informal; the Inuit prefer more personal greetings like how are you, qanuippit).

For dinner we had caribou with fireweed salad and dessert baked with wild cranberries, all of which were delicious. Caribous is kind of like really nice, tender steak with a slight difference in flavor.  It has been a great start to our Arviat adventures!

Wild Cranberry dessert squares

Caribou

Arctic Char Dip

Fireweed salad

Until next time,

-Elizabeth

Baby beluga in the deep blue sea

August 12, 2014

My goodness, it is hard to believe that we had only arrived in Churchill on Sunday and that we are already leaving tomorrow. The wonderful people here and the fun on these adventure tours are enough to fill several months of ordinary life. Thank you, Children's Wish Foundation!

Early this morning Chris and Elizabeth braved the cold waters of Churchill River to snorkel with the beluga whales. It was both cold and murky so Elizabeth only lasted a short period before retreating to the boat but the water certainly taught them about the natural adaptations of Arctic sea creatures. Fortunately, the beluga whales are spectacular to see even from shore so it was exciting to be in the water surrounded by them, even if the visibility was not ideal.

Nice suit Elizabeth!

During that time, Sami and I returned to the fabulous recreation complex with the intention of swimming either at the beach nearby or at the swimming pool. Instead, we ended up exploring the space and fell in love with the design, as it truly is the hub of the community that is beautifully cared for. There is a full sized hockey arena, curling rink, bowling alley, movie theatre, school, library, daycare facility, viewing docks for the Hudson's Bay, indoor playgrounds, pool tables, air hockey, foos ball, and more. Sami and I spent the first while playing on the enormous custom built bear slide (it is as awesome as it sounds) and then went back to the playgrounds that we had visited on the first day. Sami was so happy to talk with everyone and greeted them all with giant smiles and spent the day testing his physical boundaries. Inspired by his energy, I too decided to test my physical boundaries and returned to the twisty climbing structure that I unsuccessfuly attempted to master two days prior. With great confidence I reached the highest point and then immediately remembered that descending is typically more challenging than an ascent, so I began to panic, which was not helpful. Sami in the meantime was looking up at me from ground level saying 'Oh no! Mommy! Stuck!' and I eventually swallowed my pride enough to ask some local gentleman for a hand. They did not have a ladder and took the opportunity to have a good laugh at my expense (I did not blame them) and they eventually guided my shaky hands and feet to safety. Apparently this situation is common amongst adult tourists, so at least I am not alone in my foolishness. I was telling the story to some other lodge dwellers and they asked me if Sami was traumatized by the situation, thinking that it was he who had gotten stuck on the playground equipment. I had to quite sheepishly correct their misunderstanding and the looks on their faces was priceless. But I digress.

Elizabeth and Chris joined us at the rec centre at which point our two kids (mostly Sami) joined in with some local children to scoot around and play with various equipment. They had a lot of fun and we enjoyed the contrast between the speed and dexterity of the local children who were accustomed to the equipment and our cautious and inefficiently moving Sam. The kids all had a great time though and engaged Sami in conversation (as best as 2 and 3 year olds can). We then returned to Gypsys for lunch, a fabulous local eatery, and visited with some more locals. Sami then had his first proper nap since Saturday which was a relief to us all.

Later in the afternoon, Elizabeth and I went kayaking with beluga whales. We were a small group of eight: a lady and her mum from Winnipeg who took a seat sale as an opportunity to fulfill a lifelong dream, two couples from Missouri, and Elizabeth and I. We were fortunate in getting a two person kayak to share on this adventure and we were later told that there were whales following us the entire time we were in the water. Let me tell you, the entire experience was pure magic. Clear skies, calm waters, and hundreds of beautiful whales playfully dipping in and out of the water all around us. Some kayakers were fortunate enough to touch some, but Elizabeth and I were simply enthralled by how closely they would surface near us, swim under and around our kayak, while a curious pair sampled our rudder. For two glorious hours we paddled around the estuary near Fort Prince of Wales and drank in the sights, sounds and smells of this beluga breeding ground. We had learned yesterday that the whales come into the area to escape orcas and to raise their young. Baby belugas are darker gray and as they age, become more white. They also have a great deal of scarring that would have been disconcerting except that this is a result of a natural urge to rub against the bottom of the river and ocean to help remove shedding skin. Everyone on the water had the biggest smiles on their faces - especially Elizabeth - and even though Chris and Sami could not join us on the tour, we are excited that we will be going on a boat tour tomorrow morning to again get closer to these magnificent creatures.

When we returned, we had another fabulous dinner at Lazy Bear Cafe and were pleasantly surprised by our 'Irish waitress' (Jennifer, the lovely lady who is travelling around Canada on a two year work visa) when she stopped in after her shift to say goodbye and present Elizabeth with a thoughtful card and picture frame from the lodge. Cheryl also stopped by to say farewell as she was returning home today to start her new sonography career. It is amazing how quickly certain people can start to feel like family, even when we have only known each other for a few days.

At the moment Chris and Elizabeth are on a dog sled tour that is intended to provide the clearest view of aurora borealis in the area. We have missed the light show these past two nights so I am hoping that everyone's predictions for a great display will be accurate. Either way, I am certain the two of them are having a fabulous time out with the dogs; they will share about their experiences in tomorrow's blog.

Bye for now! 

Ania & Sami (who is soundly sleeping)

Polar Bear Sightings!

August 11, 2014

Dear Lilliane -

Today was nothing short of exhilarating. It was one of those days you would like to replay over and over if you could. It was filled with moments that we would have loved to hold and share with all those we care about. But perhaps the sheer rarity and beauty of the experiences are what will make us cherish the memories for the rest of our lives.

Our day began with a fabulous buffet-style breakfast that allowed all of us to eat according to our moods. This was also an opportunity to get to know one of the fascinating lodge staff a bit better, as she has been on a work visa over the past two years getting intimately familiar with all parts of Canada. She was so excited for us about our adventures in Churchill and offered some great advice for some upcoming tours, and even checked in with us after her shift was done to get an early glimpse of pictures. We look forward to seeing her again tomorrow morning.

Polar Bear Bath

We next went on a short walk in town and stopped in to a few shops to confirm some of the scheduled events for the next few days. This led us to again meet some enthusiastic and incredibly kind individuals. Joan at Hudson Helicopter Co. greeted us with open arms and the biggest of smiles; she was unbelievably skilled at making us feel taken care of.

Next we met a gentleman named Mark, born and raised in Churchill. He drove us to some points of interest in and around the area, presenting an almost encyclopedic knowledge of the history and ecology of the region. He recounted stories of Fort Merry and Fort Prince of Wales and their 40 year development scheme at enormous expense only to be proven ineffective when the French came in (they conquered the region without a single shot being fired). He told us about his personal run-ins with polar bears, showed us the Polar Bear Holding Facility - ie. polar bear jail - and took us to Miss Piggy, the infamous plane crash site. We ate freshly picked blueberries and learned more about the tundra and taiga regions. We had such a pleasant time talking with Mark that we quickly ran out of time and he had to rush us back to the lodge so we would not miss our helicopter tour.

How many polar bears can you count?

Back at Hudson Helicopter Tours, Joan introduced us to Eric, our pilot, and we had a pleasant chat before our safety talk and entry in the helicopter. Elizabeth sat in the front and was the copilot (she even had a chance to help with the descent, so technically she flew a helicopter today) and Chris, Sami and I eagerly clambered into the back. Sami was beside himself to be in a 'copter' but eventually gave in to his sleepiness (side note: any time we have been in a moving vehicle for more than five minutes on this trip, he has fallen asleep. Poor little one!). Words cannot properly capture the breath-taking views from a helicopter travelling 300 feet in the air at 115 mph. Hudson's Bay is a gorgeous expanse of calm blue, filled with playful pods of beluga whales that frequently break the water's surface. The tundra and taiga regions in low tide are marshy, rocky, sandy, green, and barren in haphazardous patches. We saw Miss Piggy (crash site mentioned earlier) and Ithica (abandoned boat) from the air, as well as Fort of Wales and various research camps, and were told fascinating stories related to the research Eric gets to be a part of because of his pilot skills. We also observed countless numbers of birds, and the ecological destruction caused by a proliferation of snow geese. Yet hands down the most spectacular sights were of the polar bears. Even from our aerial vantage point they were formidable and graceful. We saw a congregation of about 20 bears total that were sunbathing, swimming, and generally relaxing. And even more special, we caught a glimpse of a brave (or foolish?) mother with her cub amongst a group of about 10 massive males weighing about 1000 pounds each. These sights alone (we promise pictures soon!) were the reason Elizabeth wanted to have an Arctic Adventure, so we could not be more pleased with the outcome. Eric combatted the strong winds with ease and provided excellent service for which we will always be grateful. To top it all off, Joan's granddaughter who is about Elizabeth's age thoughtfully gifted Elizabeth with a 1000 piece puzzle of original Canadian art (can't wait to get it started!) and Sami with a water bottle he immediately attached too. We are so touched by their thoughtfulness, and are reminded that kindness is never wasted; we wish Joan could know how her natural goodness is contributing to our healing.

Up front...Elizabeth flew the helicopter too!

Sandy Beach in Nunuvat (the water looks tempting)

Due to a sudden thunderstorm (Churchill's unpredictable weather patterns continue to deliver!) our kayaking with beluga whales was rescheduled for tomorrow, which turned out beautifully. We took the time to check out a highly recommended local bakery and had the best danishes in Canada and then walked over to the Eskimo Museum. We were not expecting a small town of less than 1000 people to have such an impressive collection of Inuit art and artifacts demonstrating every aspect of their commendable survival skills. There were also artifacts and fossils from around the world which meant we had a thoroughly pleasurable afternoon of reading and exploring. One of the most stunning art pieces is near the entry way of an Inuit woman passing prechewed caribou meat to the infant she is carrying on her back. Maybe I was drawn to it for the simple fact that it demonstrated a mother's inherent instinct to protect and promote the life of her little ones, which to me is the foundation of all human interaction.

This evening we visited with some more hotel staff and clients and had another delicious meal (if you ever visit the Lazy Bear Lodge, I highly recommend the Polar Caps - prawns baked on foccacia bread with cheese, bacon, and onions). We then listened to an elder Inuit man who spoke about his life growing up in igloos (he was even born in one! Mark, our tour guide from earlier, has a good friend named Barney Tutu who had been born and raised in igloos - and his son now plays in the NHL); about historical changes and the impacts current political policies have on Inuit quality of life. Thomas was fabulous to listen to and made us all the more excited to meet and talk with people in Arviat, which will happen in two more sleeps!

The biggest highlight of today (and likely the trip) was seeing the polar bears. Elizabeth loved every moment of the day and cannot stop smiling. Sami is still cheerful about all the new sights and sounds and cracked us up today by attempting, with great gusto, to say llama (which came out as namanala). We missed the northern lights the night before and today is overcast, so hopefully we will catch them soon.
Sending our love,
Ania & CES

PS I forgot to mention that as part of the roads and trails tour we visited a quaint little Anglican Church that is one of the few historic buildings in Canada still being used for its original intent. Naturally, there were some fabulous items of note including a counterweighted bell ringing system, reversible pews, gorgeous stained glass (priced at $500 apiece in 1950 when they were first moved from the military church to this one, they are currently worth $10 000 each!), and old-time candelabras. We also stopped by an abandonded naval base that was the first in the area to use the novel technology (of the time) from Russia on how to effectively build on permafrost. With two foot high supports resting on packed gravel, this building became the predecessor for the architectural style up north. Very cool.

Goodbye Winnipeg, Hello Churchill!

August 10, 2014

After a lovely and much needed rest at Fort Garry, we packed our bags and left for another early morning flight, this time for Churchill. Reinvigorated by the interesting information we gleaned from our previous day's museum visit, we were ready to truly begin The Arctic Adventure.

We anticipated resistance from Sami during this second early start, but the little trooper was ready to go as soon as we told him that we were returning to the airport. Chris and I downed coffees and said farewell to the hotel staff before a pleasant ride to the airport. Conversation was engaging the entire way as our driver was the perfect mix of sweetness and intelligence; he shared with us his life story as he and his wife - both medical doctors - transitioned their five children from Afghanistan to Iraq (seven unpleasant days) and then finally to Winnipeg. Thanking him for the stories and thrilled that we had everything we needed for the flight PLUS were plenty early, it was life irony to discover that our flight was delayed by an hour due to inclement weather at Churchill.

Landing in Churchill

Elizabeth and Sami were doing great, Elizabeth reading all the information about Churchill and Sami still pointing out all the planes - and he began to understand that most of the planes were 'not ours' and was beyond happy when we finally boarded 'our' 22-seat plane. Elizabeth and another girl named Emily from Rankin Inlet kept Sami happy and busy and we all had a great time on the 2+ hour flight north. Our section of the plane included some superbly friendly individuals and we were served delicious meals and drinks in that short time period. Overall it was wonderful third flight in two days. Chris had a good laugh because it was his first time during a landing in which someone shouted OH GOD! because of turbulence. We were later informed that Churchill is well known for its unpredictable weather patterns.

The drive to hand-crafted Lazy Bear Lodge where we are staying for the next three nights was brief and we quickly settled into our cozy room. Two consecutive early mornings left us all groggy, so we decided to explore the town a little bit to get the blood circulating. We put on our warmest clothes and headed out to the Churchill recreation centre, the only public building open on a Sunday afternoon. Attached to the local public school, the rec centre is on the opposite end of town from where we were staying and along Hudson's Bay. Nonetheless, it was only about a 15 minute walk, which would not have felt long except that there was some weird snow-rain (snain?) falling and wicked winds that made us all question why we were in Churchill instead of on a beach in Hawaii. But Elizabeth, ever the optimist, pointed out that this was all part of the Arctic adventure and that we were getting the genuine Churchill experience. The angry swells along the shoreline were an awesome sight to take in and we marvel all the more at the ingenuity of the Inuit in surviving off of this land.

We spent the better part of the afternoon enjoying ourselves at the indoor playgrounds and exploring the centre. The walk home was less frigid and we made it back to the lodge for drying out. Chris and Sami met with some other lodge residents and we eventually settled in for some scrumptious local cuisine along with another friendly tourist. Cheryl had just finished her sonography program in Winnipeg and is celebrating the start of her career by getting up close and personal with beluga whales. The stars further aligned and Chris and Elizabeth's snorkeling trip was rebooked so that they can join Cheryl when she goes. It is always worthwhile to meet neat and inspiring individuals!

Sami sent us a clear message of tiredness and the need to pack it in when he randomly began singing Jingle Bells at the restaurant. We are impressed with how quickly his vocabulary is improving (he especially enjoys the propellers on the planes which he originally referred to as plane fans) and he is actually responding to people's questions about his name and age (which we had not previously witnessed).

Elizabeth is especially keen to begin exploring the landscape and start looking for polar bears. So far we have seen a few species of birds from our room window that I (Ania) had mistaken for Arctic hares. So glad we have our binoculars here to clarify those sorts of misconceptions :).

Looking forward to tomorrow's adventures!

ACES